Tokyo Ueno Food Guide: Discover Pon-to Honten, the Historic Tonkatsu Restaurant

Ponta Honke’s signature Katsuretsu (カツレツ) stands distinctly apart from the common Tonkatsu. Founder Shinjiro Shimada adapted it from Western côtelette or Wiener schnitzel, crucially substituting pork for the traditional veal and employing a tempura-like deep-frying method. For their Katsuretsu, they use only the very center (‘shin’) of the pork loin, meticulously trimming away all surrounding fat. This pursuit of pure lean meat is a defining characteristic. Accordingly, the menu always lists this dish as “Katsuretsu,” not the modern term “Tonkatsu.”

It’s highly recommended to first taste the Katsuretsu plain, without any condiments, to fully appreciate the pork’s inherent aroma and sweetness. Afterwards, feel free to pair it with the provided house-made sauce, salt, or mustard according to your preference. The house sauce carries a subtle spiciness, designed to enhance, rather than mask, the meat’s natural flavor. Because the fat is removed prior to cooking, the Katsuretsu is pre-cut into easy-to-manage, bite-sized pieces (typically halved horizontally, then sliced vertically) before being served. You’ll find the center incredibly moist, tender, and possessed of a gentle umami, while the edges offer more fragrance and a delightful springy texture – absolutely delicious❣️ 

The sauce itself is both refreshing and richly flavorful; personally, I find it pairs best with a touch of yellow mustard. Accompanying the Katsuretsu is finely shredded cabbage (specifically cut perpendicular to the leaf veins for a fluffy texture) and a traditional potato side dish, perfect for cleansing the palate between bites.